Phew - our Baltic Sea vacation with children begins with a long journey from Munich to Heiligenhafen. But this exertion is definitely worth it and our first vacation in Schleswig-Holstein has many adventures in store for us:
Overall, we're lucky with the weather in early June. The first days the sun and shines continuously gives us mild temperatures of around 20 degrees. It only starts to get a bit more mature and cooler on the fourth day. Fortunately, it is never really rainy and we can do ours Enjoy a Baltic Sea holiday with children to the fullest!
We are the first five nights in Heiligenhafen and the last seven nights in Grömitz. We spend a few days on the beach in a beach chair and take some trips to the surrounding area. Here are my tips and highlights for a Baltic Sea vacation with children for you:
Directions from Munich to Heiligenhafen
We start at 5 a.m. in Munich, hoping that the kids will sleep one more lap in the car - none! Nevertheless, it is good that we are so early because the streets are deserted and we get through well. We drive via Nuremberg, further to Leipzig and Hanover and at the end past Hamburg and Lübeck. I haven't been this far north for a long time! After about 10 hours of driving, we reach the glamorous coastal village in bright sunshine Heiligenhafen and I fall in love with our first accommodation:
Bunk Kalle for your Baltic Sea vacation with children
The adventure begins right in our first accommodation - called the pirate ship Bunk Kalle directly at the marina in Heiligenhafen. There are two bunks, a bathroom and toilet, a fully equipped kitchen and, as a highlight, a huge roof terrace. We feel really comfortable here everything is easily accessible on foot.
Other hotel tips:
Here I see the pictures on the Internet by chance and I am thrilled. There are also very cool and stylish rooms and a parking space for campers! The location is really awesome right on the beach promenade and the sea. Click here to book!
That too Beach motel catches our eye immediately on site. This was built in the Long Island style and is located directly on the sea opposite the shack. Click here to book!
Baltic vacation with children in Heiligenhafen
The first few days we explore the surrounding area. First we stroll on foot and the kids with their scooter from the marina to the sandy beach with the typical beach chairs, past nice shops, restaurants and cafes on the beach promenade. There is also a beautiful playground with climbing wall, swing and pirate ship. Everything is well maintained and clean.
The beach is really beautiful and miles long. Head east to the nature reserve Grass warder, in the west you get to Steinwarder. But we stay where we are and run on the pier across the sea. A little adventure for our little explorers. With 435 meters and 43 pillars this is the most modern pier in Europe! There are children's play areas, lounging areas everywhere, a bathing deck and also a glazed lounge for bad weather days. Oh yes, even toilets!
On the first day we take it easy, sleep a little and then have breakfast on our roof terrace. Fortunately, the sun still shines today. After that, the kids want to go to the playground on the promenade again. My husband takes care of the essentials at the REWE around the corner in the pedestrian zone. I come with the children and find downtown sweet with its brick buildings with cute shops and cobblestones on the ground. That's how I imagined it. There is water everywhere, whether at the fishing port, inland lake or on the beach. The whole city is surrounded by the sea, a unique location!
Bicycle trip to Graswarder & Steinwarder
These two sections together form one elongated peninsula with a 230 hectare nature reserve. We definitely want to explore this on our second day by bike.
We actually want to Marketplace and get better at Benno's bike shop Rent three bikes, but unfortunately closed due to illness. We google and find them Bike rental from Michael Handschug right on the harbor. Here we get two bicycles, one with a child seat in the back. Our 7 year old son gets a somewhat rickety children's bike, but the main thing is that it rides.
Thatched roof houses in Graswarder
We start Towards the beach promenade, drive on Inland lake past and turn right onto the Graswarderweg Eastbound. We drive along dunes, it is slowly becoming quieter and the view of the reeds and the thatched half-timbered houses is really idyllic. Incidentally, these are listed buildings. Soon the cobbled path becomes a sand track and we follow the path about 1,3 km to the end. There are other picturesque houses on the beach and we linger here briefly. The gateway to Nature reserve Grass warder is unfortunately closed, but the trip was still worth it.
We drive back the same way, pass the nudist beach, past the main beach and the dog beach further west. Now we are in Steinwarder and the dunes and the sea are pretty to look at. At the Strandperle there is a SUP rental and here and there a small kiosk with a beach chair rental. We'll cruise once completely around the Inland lake around and everywhere there is a beautiful view of the sea and nice playgrounds for the kids. Back at our houseboat, we pack our swimming gear and drive back to the beach.
Bathing in the Baltic Sea
Just east of the main beach just before the nudist beach you can lie in the sand without a beach chair. We lock the bikes and unpack the beach shell. The sea is not that cold at all, but unfortunately a little rocky and full of algae. I think I'm spoiled. Our son doesn't mind and he jumps into the cool water. It is incredibly relaxed here, a few seagulls are circling and the sand is fine and golden yellow. It's already nice here on the Baltic Sea.
Heiligenhafen tourist train
Unfortunately we have bad weather one day, gray in gray and it is raining. During a break in the rain we take the opportunity to go to the port. Stops there the "blue route" of the Bimmelbahn and drives around the inland lake in about 45 minutes around in Steinwarder. Our plan is to get off at the holiday park and go to adventure golf. A nice change for the kids.
Once there, the sun comes out and we spontaneously decide on direction cliff to run. We take a leisurely stroll along the beach, enjoy the stormy weather and throw stones into the water. We can already see them in the background steeply sloping coast and the lighthouse. A beautiful backdrop. Here we linger a bit and run back to the mini golf course.
Our son has been looking forward to it all day. It is a small, nice facility with water, artificial turf and 12 seats. It's actually more fun than on the usual mini golf course and our son ruthlessly rips us off. Everyone is having fun and we're just about to catch the next train ride back to port.
A day in a beach chair
On our last day in Heiligenhafen let's rent a beach chair at the pier. I actually wanted one in advance reserve online at Beach butler, but everything was already booked up there. Due to Corona, the beach chairs have to be further apart this year and can only be rented once a day. So when we pass by bike, I'd rather reserve one for Friday.
The weather is a bit mixed at first and the wind is cool. But as soon as the sun comes out, it becomes really cozy in the beach chair. We play bowls, there is ice cream and drinks from the Beachbar deck 7 and in the sea we search for crabs and jellyfish with the landing net. Such a day at the sea is really balm for the soul. We spend over four hours here. On the way back to the marina there is another waffle and a hot dog on hand and our last day here in Heiligenhafen is coming to an end.
Eat & Drink
There are bars, stalls and ice cream parlors here like sand by the sea. We eat once the starfish delicious fish in the Shack there are good burgers and the Italian Al mare the pizza and pasta is highly recommended. Otherwise we stroll up and down the beach promenade, try fish rolls, crepes and ice cream. We don't have a favorite. Everywhere it looks inviting with the sweet beach chairs to linger. The restrictions due to corona are also limited.
My advice: Almost all of the restaurants close at 22 p.m. and from 18 p.m. everything is full. So it is best to reserve in advance, spontaneously it is rather difficult to get a seat.
From Heiligenhafen we start from a day trip to Grossenbrode. I read on the blog of Experience Schleswig-Holstein from the great beach path here and would like to watch it in live. We need about 15 minutes by car and park for a fee on South beach. From here we walk past a few stalls and leisure activities for kids on the beach promenade Towards the playground "Schatzinsel". The path always leads along the sea and is really nice. Dunes, beach and turquoise blue sea included.
Playground by the sea
After about 10 minutes we reach the goal and the kids are excited about the new one Playground with slides, swings, climbing course and more! Meanwhile, we parents enjoy the sea view on the park bench. The water is turquoise blue, it could also be the Caribbean. I slowly fall in love with this beautiful piece of earth between the sky and the sea. In addition to the playground, there is also a small stall with snacks and we order fries and sausages.
Kite flying on the beach
Then it goes on the beach for kite flying. It feels like here Grossenbrode very relaxed too, there are a few beach chairs to rent everywhere and here there is plenty of room to run around opposite the playground. The wind blows, the waves jump over the water and the kiters have fun. Our dragon is dancing like crazy and for perfect luck there is also an ice cream truck. The nice ice cream seller tells and a little seaman's yarn and we are just happy!
From Grossenbrode it is not far after Fehmarn. So we jet further north and theoretically we are almost in Denmark. We chug on the familiar Fehmarnsund Bridge, everywhere we only see the sea. The landscape is really flatter here, flowers bloom everywhere, to the right and left are cute brick houses, everything is somehow contemplative. I read in the guidebook from South beach and we park at the marina for a fee.
Carefree on the south beach
From here we walk ten minutes along the water to our newly discovered one Favorite cafe carefree. The name says it all and we chill with a sea view, Coffee and cake.
Then it goes on to South beach and I'm rather disappointed this time. Ugly hotel blocks adorn the beach and it is extremely windy and crowded. I like that Grossenbrode definitely better. Or maybe we just ended up in the wrong corner. The highlights for me are the kitesurfers in the water and the café carefree. So we don't stay here long and drive back to our houseboat in half an hour Heiligenhafen.
We start try again Fehmarn, this time without kids. These remain with the grandparents who arrive in the second week. I read on the internet that it's in here Gold there is a SUP rental. Since we want to go to the west coast this time, it fits quite well. The place is really small and very chilled. There is not much going on here, except for the rental for windsurfers and kiters. A SUP board costs € 10 an hour and we put in a shining one Sunshine and hardly any wind with our paddle tour in this nice bay. A perfect start to the day!
Then we start to feel hungry and we follow a tip from the travel guide and a blogger colleague. Near the kite spot am Gollendorfer beach this cute café is a little off the beaten path. There is a large, paid parking lot directly at Elli. The café itself is nice to look at and has one great garden with various play options for adults and kids. We order drinks, a tarte flambee and a falafel punch. Everything was really delicious. Only from the location I would have expected something more. The sea is about 200 meters away but unfortunately not to be seen from here and I don't think the beach is pretty either. Otherwise there is not much to offer here, I'm honest.
In search of a beautiful beach, we end up in Fledged. The beach there is not worth mentioning, but for that we discover a lighthouse here. You run from the parking lot 2 km there or rent a pedal car. We are too lazy for both and just enjoy the beautiful panorama on the field.
Our last stop on Fehmarn is the place Orth. Orth means "top", "headland" and was originally a loading place on Sulsdorfer Grund. The former fishing and trading port is really mini, but somehow authentic.
There are a few Cafes and restaurants that line the harbor and probably the best fish sandwich the island directly at the booth at the harbor master. About the restaurant Quintings I only hear good things, but unfortunately it's closed today. We treat ourselves to a cappuccino with Franzbrötchen in the Café at the harbor and make us go back home.
5-lake trip in Holstein Switzerland
Our journey continues, we check out our sweet houseboat and on the way to Grömitz we put a stop in Malente a. We drive there for about 45 minutes. I read in the travel guide that there is a nice boat trip in Holstein Switzerland. A perfect stopover to bridge the time a bit until we can check in at our new home in Grömitz. We park directly at the train station and Eating in nice Sea restaurant at noon.
So it starts at 13 p.m. Everything is a bit stuffy here, the corona rules are taken very seriously here Families with young children are not the favorite guests, I believe. We don't care about that, we board our ship and have reserved seats directly with the captain. The sun comes out especially for us and in a 1,5 hour drive we pass the Dieksee, Langensee, Behlersee, Höftsee and Edebergsee on small waterways. In total we cover 20km on our trip. Everything is very green and idyllic. It would be nice to have a house right by the lake. Back in Malente let's make our way to Grömitz and are there about 45 minutes later.
Baltic vacation with children in Grömitz
We are hardly in Grömitz itself. There are shops, cafes and restaurants and there is a lot going on. At the other end is the marina. But since it is from our holiday home north of Grömitz am Lenster beach is already a bit away we prefer to spend the days by the sea.
Our DanCenter holiday home
Our new accommodation from DanCenter is within walking distance of only 200 meters from the beach away. Everything is designed for families, there is one Climbing garden, a mini golf course and a large playground. The resort itself is quite nice, around 20 colorful wooden houses in Scandi style arranged in a circle. For me personally not as special as our houseboat, but with several people and the kids it is just practical. We are the second week of eight, the grandparents have also arrived.
There are five bedrooms, two bathrooms, a spacious kitchen with an adjoining living room. We also have a garden. Enough space for everyone. Only the second bathroom is a bit cumbersome in the wellness area. Otherwise this is really awesome and also the main reason why we ended up here. A pool with a slide, a whirlpool and a sauna. Heaven on earth for our children and my father-in-law. Here we spend quite a few hours a day. Once it rains all day long, such an indoor pool is of course worth its weight in gold!
The Lenster beach
The beach right by our resort is really pretty. Fine sand, dunes and the sea. Perfect for collecting shells, digging and kite flying. You can walk for miles along the beach. Either south to after Grömitz in or to the north Kellenhusen. There is a great route on the dike for cycling or jogging. The wind is of course everywhere.
The weather is nice to us, sun and clouds alternate, only occasionally there is a shower. So we enjoy beach life or I do yoga on the beach. Either directly with us on the Lenster beach with lots of space and our beach shell or then in our beach chair. Once we even jump into the sea!
Beach chair rental Glaser
I book from home as a precaution ever a beach chair online. Somehow I had heard that you might not get any more on site. But probably only in the high season. The Beach chair rental Glaser is at the northernmost end of Grömitz, but unfortunately 2 km from our holiday home. Since I have misjudged the distances, it can happen.
For that we make a nice one Walk on the beach and see a bit of the area. Our beach chair is on the edge in the first row, already cool. There is a small café with fish sandwiches and ice cream and a playground for the kids. We have now rented the beach chair here for five days and we can also lock up our beach items. Practically.
To the dune is only about 500 meters north of us directly on the beach and has excellent, down-to-earth Baltic Sea cuisine with lots of fresh fish. Not very cheap, but the location and the sea view are really nice! Costs about € 20 per main course.
Behind the Beach chair rental Glaser there is a good one Booth with delicious fish sandwiches. In Grömitz of course, one bar follows the next. That is still recommended here Falkenthal and Gosch of course, always works.
In Kellenhusen there are also a few nice restaurants on the beach, eg the Greek Myth or with fish in Utspann. There is a sweet courtyard café with a strawberry field just before Cismar.
Leisure activities DanCenter Grömitz and surroundings
In addition to the Climbing garden from 6 years, a beautiful playground and mini golf, there is also a bike rental with a play café for children in bad weather. In Grömitz is still the Noah's Ark Zoo and is nearby Hopp riding stable. Among other things, this also offers horse rides on the beach.
On our second day in Grömitz let’s do a little trip Lübeck. The journey takes about 45 minutes and there is the same Holsten Gate a public car park for 5 € a day. From here we only walk a few minutes to the famous sight. The gate is really pretty to look at and somehow it is a bit crooked. This late Gothic building is one of the remains of the Lübeck city fortifications. Since 1905 has been in the rooms the City History Museum of Lübeck.
The typical gabled houses right on the Beamthat used to be salt storage are really picturesque. I also find the old patrician houses in the alleys behind them really cute. Start here at the Love bridge also the boat tours around the old town.
I really didn't have time to over myself Lübeck to inform and we just let ourselves drift through the old town. Past the St. Petri church (here you could also go to the observation deck) we walk to the Rathausplatz. There is a small market with fish rolls, spices and fries. We still get a place in the Café Maret and order marzipan coffee and marzipan cake, clear. Very tasty everything.
The children are tired and we walk back to the pedestrian zone Holsten Gate and on to the parking lot. I think Lübeck is very cute and unfortunately we only see a fraction.
Baltic Sea vacation with children - conclusion
I have to admit, I am really pleasantly surprised by a Baltic Sea vacation with children! Everything is designed for families, there are an infinite number of beautifully designed playgrounds and apart from our 5-lake trip, children were also welcome guests everywhere in the restaurants etc. The kilometer-long beach in Schleswig-Holstein is a huge adventure playground for the kids and there is so much to do. We really are not bored for a minute and cannot begin to exhaust the leisure activities here in the north. If the Baltic Sea weren't so far from Munich, we would definitely come back every year!
What are your highlights for a Baltic Sea vacation with children? Feel free to write me a comment! Maybe you are also interested in that North Sea!
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